The atlas / Vol. XXIIIReading

Indonesia

1 city in this edition · 10 bites stamped nationwide

Plate XXIII · Indonesia at the table

The cities

1 chapter
Bali (Denpasar)10 bitesCh. 01 · Babi Guling · Nasi Campur BaliStart here

Indonesia food starts with city-specific dishes: Bali (Denpasar) for Babi Guling and Nasi Campur Bali.

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The rankings

8 lists
Best Babi GulingIn pressBabi Guling is the definitive Balinese feast, representing the island's unique Hindu heritage in a majority Muslim nation. The dish consists of a whole pig stuffed with a complex spice paste and slow-roasted over an open fire. The texture is defined by the contrast between the paper-thin crispy skin and the tender, spice-infused meat. It is traditionally served with a side of lawar (vegetable and meat salad) and a bowl of rich bone broth. The trap is visiting a shop too late in the afternoon when the skin has lost its crunch.Best Nasi Campur BaliIn pressNasi CampurBest Bebek BetutuIn pressBebek Betutu is Bali's most labor-intensive ceremonial dish, requiring hours of preparation and slow cooking. A whole duck is rubbed with an intense spice paste, wrapped in banana leaves, and smoked or steamed until the meat falls off the bone. The flavor is deeply earthy and spicy, distinct from the more common "crispy duck" found in tourist restaurants. True betutu is moist and rich, often served as a centerpiece for celebratory meals. The trap is ordering "crispy duck" and expecting the complex flavor profile of a true betutu.Best Sate LilitIn pressSate Lilit is the uniquely Balinese version of satay, distinguished by its preparation and presentation. Unlike most satays that use cubes of meat, lilit uses minced meat mixed with grated coconut, coconut milk, and a rich spice blend. This mixture is then molded around a flat skewer, which is traditionally a fragrant lemongrass stalk or a wide bamboo stick. The satay is grilled over charcoal, which infuses the meat with a smoky and citrusy aroma. The trap is buying satay that has been sitting out for too long, as it quickly loses its moisture.Best LawarIn pressLawar is the essential side dish of Bali, a finely chopped mixture of vegetables, coconut, and minced meat infused with rich spices. There are two primary versions: Lawar Putih (white), which is made with coconut milk, and the more traditional Lawar Merah (red), which includes fresh animal blood. The texture is a complex interplay of crunchy long beans, soft coconut, and savory meat. It is almost always served as a mandatory component of a Babi Guling or Nasi Campur set. The trap is eating Lawar that has been left in the sun, as the fresh ingredients can spoil quickly.Best Ayam BetutuIn pressAyam Betutu is the more common and accessible version of the ceremonial slow-cooked duck. A whole chicken is rubbed with an intensely spicy and aromatic paste before being steamed or roasted for many hours until incredibly tender. The hallmark of a great betutu is the "kuah" (broth), which is rich, oily, and packed with the flavors of galangal, turmeric, and chili. It is one of the spiciest dishes in the Balinese repertoire and is always served with rice and peanuts. The trap is buying a version that hasn't been cooked long enough to let the spices truly penetrate the meat.Best Nasi JinggoIn pressNasi Jinggo is Bali's ultimate street food for the common man, traditionally sold from roadside carts starting in the late afternoon. It consists of a handful of rice—roughly the size of a fist—wrapped tightly in a banana leaf with small amounts of shredded chicken, sate lilit, fried noodles, and spicy sambal. The dish is famous for its extreme affordability and its role as a quick energy source for workers and night owls. The name "Jinggo" is said to originate from the price (formerly 1,500 rupiah) or from the 1960s Django western movies. The trap is buying a pack where the sambal has made the rice excessively soggy over many hours.Best Sate PlecingIn pressSate Plecing is Bali's answer to the more common peanut-based satays found elsewhere in Indonesia. It is distinguished by its unique sauce—Plecing—which is a fiery blend of bird's eye chili, shrimp paste (terasi), tomato, and a generous squeeze of local lime. The meat, typically beef or pork, is grilled over charcoal and then slathered in this vibrant, red, and intensely savory sauce. It is a favorite among locals who prefer a sharp, spicy, and acidic flavor profile over the sweetness of peanut sauce. The trap is assuming all Balinese satay uses peanut sauce and being unprepared for the intense heat of a true Plecing.