India

6 cities in this edition · 60 bites stamped nationwide

Plate XXII · India at the table

The cities

6 chapters

Agra13 bitesCh. 01 · Petha · Bedai With Aloo SabziStart here Bengaluru (Bangalore)11 bitesCh. 02 · Benne Dosa · Bisi Bele BathOpen Chennai10 bitesCh. 03 · Masala Dosa · Idli with Sambar and ChutneyOpen Delhi10 bitesCh. 04 · Butter Chicken (Murgh Makhani) · Chole BhatureOpen Jaipur8 bitesCh. 05 · Dal Baati Churma · Laal MaasOpen Mumbai8 bitesCh. 06 · Vada Pav · Pav BhajiOpen

India food starts with city-specific dishes: Agra for Petha and Bedai With Aloo Sabzi; Bengaluru (Bangalore) for Benne Dosa and Bisi Bele Bath; Chennai for Masala Dosa and Idli with Sambar and Chutney.

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The rankings

8 lists

Best PethaIn pressAgra's signature ash-gourd candy is a triumph of Mughal-era confectionery that transforms a simple winter melon into a translucent, syrupy jewel. The candy is soaked in lime-treated water and then simmered in sugar syrup until it becomes perfectly glassy and absorbs various aromatic flavors. For the purest experience, travelers should start with the 'Sada Petha,' which highlights the melon's natural texture and a hint of rosewater. It is most commonly found in the old-city lanes of Noori Gate, where the air is thick with the scent of boiling sugar. This sweet is a historic craft that has been passed down through generations of 'Halwais.'Best Bedai With Aloo SabziIn pressBedai is Agra's quintessential breakfast, a deep-fried, lentil-stuffed crisp bread that serves as the perfect vessel for spicy potato curry. The bread is prepared by stuffing a wheat dough with spiced urad dal and frying it until it achieves a golden-brown crunch. It is traditionally served with 'Aloo Sabzi,' a potato curry seasoned with black salt, cumin, and a generous amount of chilies. This meal is best enjoyed in the early morning hours, as the 'Sabzi' develops its full depth of flavor by dawn. It is a hearty, oily, and intensely satisfying start to any day in the city.Best Mughlai BiryaniIn pressAgra's version of Biryani is a refined Mughal legacy that emphasizes aromatic spices and delicate long-grain Basmati rice. Unlike the spicy Hyderabadi variety, Agra's Biryani is characterized by subtle use of whole spices like cardamom, cloves, and mace. The meat is marinated in yogurt and spices before being layered with partially cooked rice and finished in a sealed pot. The result is a dish where every grain of rice is separate, fragrant, and permeated with savory juices. It is traditionally served with 'Salan' or 'Raita' to balance the richness of the slow-cooked meat and rice.Best Mutton KormaIn pressAgra's Mutton Korma is a decadent triumph of Mughal culinary art, characterized by rich, velvety gravy and perfectly tenderized meat. The dish is built on browned onions, yogurt, and a paste of nuts like cashews which provides its signature thick consistency. Unlike spicier curries, the Korma focuses on depth of flavor, utilizing aromatic spices like nutmeg and saffron to create a complex profile. The mutton is slow-cooked until it falls off the bone, absorbing the richness of the gravy. It is the ultimate luxury meal in Agra, typically paired with saffron-infused Sheermal or soft Roomali Naans.Best Kebabs & RollsIn pressKebabs in Agra are a fragrant and flavorful legacy of the city's Mughal courts, offering grilled and pan-fried meat delicacies. The most iconic is the 'Chicken Tikka,' where chunks of meat are marinated in spicy yogurt and roasted in a Tandoor. Another favorite is the 'Seekh Kebab,' made from minced meat mixed with ginger, garlic, and herbs, then grilled on skewers. For a portable meal, these kebabs are wrapped in thin Roomali naans with onions and mint chutney to create 'Kebab Rolls.' These are best enjoyed in the late evening, as the smoky aroma of charcoal grills fills the air.Best ParathaIn pressParatha in Agra is a versatile flatbread that ranges from a simple staple to a decadent, pan-fried delicacy. The most famous versions are 'Stuffed Parathas,' where wheat dough is filled with mixtures like mashed potatoes or spicy lentils. These are traditionally served with a side of cooling curd, tangy pickle, and spicy vegetable curry. For the ultimate Agra experience, travelers should try the deep-fried parathas at Belanganj, which are cooked until they become incredibly crisp and layered. It is a heavy, satisfying meal that is equally popular as a breakfast or lunch option.Best JalebiIn pressAgra's Jalebi is a sweet, spiraled delight that is an indispensable part of the city's breakfast culture, often paired with spicy Bedai. These golden-orange treats are made by deep-frying fermented wheat-flour batter into concentric circles, which are immediately soaked in warm sugar syrup. The result is a sweet that is incredibly crisp on the outside and filled with a burst of syrup inside. In Agra, Jalebis are traditionally fried in 'Desi Ghee,' giving them a rich, buttery aroma that is irresistible. They are best enjoyed piping hot, directly from the frying pan, while the syrup is still fluid.Best Chaat (Bhalla / Aloo Tikki)In pressAgra's Chaat culture is a vibrant part of its culinary identity, with the 'Bhalla' being the most beloved street snack. These are golden-brown, crispy potato patties that are shallow-fried on a massive iron Tawa until they achieve a perfect crunch. They are served mashed and topped with chutneys—sweet tamarind and spicy green chili—along with curd and chopped onions. This combination of sweet, sour, spicy, and crunchy flavors makes it an irresistible afternoon or evening snack. The best Chaat is found in bustling market areas where vendors have been perfecting their spice blends for generations.